The Weberian Apparatus

THE LONG, HAPPY LIFE OF A NANO TANK

2007-01-20T18:45:00.000-08:00

Well over a year ago, I built the (just under) 20g tank that has occupied so many postings below. Today, for the first time in months, I'm posting photos so you can see how a tank matures and remains happy without major topographical revisions.

Older photos show moss tied to the central log in the tank. I removed that moss months ago because I wasn't happy with how dominating it was visually in the center of the tank. I then tied three very small clumps of moss to the driftwood log and let it simmer for weeks. The tank went through a period where nothing would grow (but nothing would die). Most peculiar. Instead of changing my nutrient, lighting, and water-change routine, I simply kept doing what I'd been doing since the tank became established. This patience and meticulous persistence paid off.

...

20G TANK: CLOSE-UPS

2006-04-02T19:34:00.000-07:00

Today, I spent nearly 2 hours with my hands in my tank. My shoulders and back ache from bending over for so long. Despite the aches, I had a terrific time. This is the first time -- in this tank -- I've had to dramatically cut back on plant growth. It took a long time. I cut a fist sized clump of moss away from the driftwood, whacked away at dead leaves, carefully plucked opportunistic moss from grass beds, and removed large amounts of tall grass. Now, much more light streams to the substrate, which should help with the overall health of the tank.

Lindernia slowly expelling oxygen in a CO2 rich tank.

...

Monotetrus travancoricus, who moves around so much that photo opportunities like this are rare.

Siamensis and Boraras brigittae socializing in the shadow of a moss-covered driftwood log.

I rarely see Siamensis facing the camera.

A Cherry shrimp well articulated by bright light and contrast with moss.

OXYGEN BUBBLES

2006-03-22T16:57:00.000-08:00

The rock layers at the top of the Little Malawi 10g tank (my cichlid conserve) are about 4 inches from the water's surface and 6 inches from strong fluorescent bulbs. Light algae forms every few weeks on these plateaus, where they photosynthesize their little butts off, with no other plant life to compete for their minimal nutrients. I'm amazed that algae grows in an unplanted tank into which I deliver no nutrients. Just fish.

WEEK 20: 20G TANK

2006-03-12T21:30:00.000-08:00

I'm gearing up to make my tank suitable for competition. I'm finally happy with how the (slooooow growing) grasses are maturing. The moss has reached an impressive but manageable mass on its driftwood roost, fulfilling the centerpiece aspirations I had for it. I'm pleased with how the Blyxa japonica dominates but doesn't try to escape its rocky quarter in the right rear of the tank.

What remains to meet my satisfaction is how the tall grasses in the back center/left merge with the left side, curling around to the foreground. The Polygonum I had there was simply too weedy.

My aesthetic challenge is this: how do I complement the grassy spirit of the tank with a stroke of character or color on the left side? I think I focused too hard on color, wanting to introduce brown or red to contrast the overwhelmingly lime green hue of the vegetation.

Today, I managed to find a solution in balance. Instead of a red stem plant, I used a gorgeous specimen of Cryptocoryne spiralis, which is very tall, grass-like, and just red/brown enough to represent warmth and shadow. Directly in front of that, I planted a single specimen of Cyperus helferi, to augment the tank with yet another tall grass. In front of that I planted two young specimens of an unidentified grass that is about half the height of the Cyperus and tall crypto. I bought all of these plants from Steven and George at Aqua Forest Aquarium.

For a little Seuss-like playfulness, I nestled two single stalks of Lindernia in the new tall plants. I also planted four stalks of Hydrocotyle verticillata in some of the foreground grass on the tank's right side. I like the idea of this plant, I'm just not sure yet whether it adds anything to a conserve dedicated to fragility.

Below is a succession of photos, with today's shots following shots of the tank's earlier stages.

12.17.05

Establishing period, lots of stem plants that would be later discarded.
01.16.06

Tank about 2 months old, stem plants gutted and planned design installed.
02.09.06

Tank fully mature, rife with fish and shrimp.
03.12.06

The lush period. Three new varieties of tall grass-like plants replace Polygonum on the left.
03.12.06


03.12.06

The new plants bring out the algae squad: Otocinclus and Crystal Red shrimp
03.12.06

The very clever Lindernia; I'm eager to see how it flourishes as an accent plant.
03.12.06

Hydrocotyle verticillata fascinates me, but it draws a lot of attention to itself. I'm waiting to see how it fits in a grassy environment.
03.12.06

Gorgeous Cryptocoryne spiralis, with its long, elegant stems and lazy leaves are attractive to the Otos.

THE COMING OF THE CICHLIDS

2006-02-26T15:58:00.000-08:00

Streaming video of my new cichlids. After five weeks, Little Malawi is established. A couple of days ago, I brought home three beautiful Melanochromis maingano, one male and three females. They immediately took to the towering caves, where they like to lurk out of view of the bright clear waters in the foreground. At 3-4 inches, they're the biggest fish I've ever created homes for.

I'm so happy that I followed common advice regarding the cichlid's power and enthusiasm for digging in the sand. If I had not epoxied all the large rocks in the cave tower and settled their bases deeply in the sand, the entire landscape would have fallen within 24 hours of these cichlids' arrival. They are relentless in their attacks on the sandy substrate. This worried me at first. I thought that not even my carefully secured structures would survive, but everything is holding together wonderfully. Some of the smaller round rocks I used in the foreground have disappeared under whole new dunes.

I was lucky enough to capture on video the reason for all this digging activity: spawning.

My tank differs dramatically from the tank in which Justin of Ocean Aquarium cultivated them. My water is significantly harder and more alkaline (acclimating the cichilds with a drip system took over two hours), in keeping with Lake Malawi conditions. My tank also offers much more variety in the landscape, more places for territorial respite. All factors that contribute to a spawning.

You'll notice in the video that the female is basically relocating a 2"-3" parcel of sand -- with her mouth! She creates a deep pocket between rocks. Notice toward the end of the video that while in the hole, she uses the power of her tail to shovel out a large wave of sand, causing small rocks in the foreground to collapse.

A day after I took this video, the male moved into the sand burrow and, I can only assume, spent the several seconds needed to fertilize eggs the digging cichlid had laid. Fascinating stuff! And all visible, front and center, mere feet from where I am typing.

WEEK 11: 20G TANK

2006-02-09T16:08:00.000-08:00

The tank is now established and happy. My algae problems have all but disappeared. The fish and shrimp are playful and active, and the grasses are beginning to thicken to my satisfaction. I'm still not sure if I like the foreground far left plant arrangement. The tall grass in the back is so lovely, it seems a shame to put in a competing stem plant. I'm going to look at something a little more shrubby before I start pruning and planning for competition. Also, I'll be adding an adhesive black background, but only during the photography for the aquatic contest.

LIFE THRIVES

2006-01-30T19:10:00.000-08:00

There's a very small opportunistic plant growing out of cracks in the lava rock of the Little Malawi tank. Only two instances, but they are remarkable. The leaves in this photo, shot from a distance of about two inches, are less than a millimeter long. Calciferous algae glows on other rocks; I don't know if their brightly-colored stains will remain once the tank is established. And what other vermins lurk in this otherwise barren conserve?

LITTLE MALAWI

2006-01-28T18:20:00.000-08:00

A few years ago, I decided to name my 6g Asgard. In keeping with the tradition of naming tanks, I've decided to call the new 10g -- which is establishing itself as we speak -- Little Malawi.

This is a fascinating new direction for me. I feel comfortable with the lush, planted tank. But with Little Malawi I'll approximate the climate and conditions of the cichlids accustomed to that region. The tank, as you can see, is devoid of vegetation. I'm buffering the water gently to maintain a hard, alkaline column -- roughly 8.0 pH and high KH. In contrast, my original 10g tank, which hosts Tetras and Checkerboard cichlids (South American), is soft and acidic at just under 6 pH.

Livestock? I've given it a lot of thought. African cichlids are considerably larger than the mostly South American and Asian fish to which I'm accustomed. Because of this and the fact that my tank is small, I have to stock accordingly -- 3 specimens, one male, two female, so that everyone gets along nicely. I'm leaning toward Melanochromis maingano, a gorgeous dark blue fish with radiant light blue stripes and spots. They're typically aggressive, but they are so robust and beautiful, I think 3 specimens will work with the intricate cave network I've built in Little Malawi.

In a couple of weeks, I'll bring home the fish. For now, Little Malawi brews.

THE 10G OVERHAUL

2006-01-22T19:53:00.000-08:00

So, here I am, yet again with a new tank. I'm not sure whether this is my fourth tank, or if it's a replacement for my original tank. After several months of enjoying Checkerboard cichlids (Crenicara filamentosa), I decided to create a strictly cichlid environment. So, I designed the following:

The problem with the tank above is that it lends itself more to Lake Malawi hard-water cichlids than to the South American cichlids of which Checkerboards are a part. To make the above tank more amenable to Checkerboards, I'd have to introduce plants. Not many, just some Anubias and Java fern would do the trick. But if I want to go with a plantless, stone-only cichlid environment, a la Africa, then I'll have to harden the water and say no to any plants.

Ergo, I'm struggling with what to do. I think it's time to go visit Justin, see what he has to say.

ASGARD RELOADED

2006-01-16T09:27:00.000-08:00

I gutted and re-landscaped my 6g tank shortly before Christmas. It took about three hours and required a fairly dramatic rethinking about what I can do with the tank.

Because most of the plants in Asgard were quite old and starting to look raggedy or algae-stressed, I removed them all. Every last one. I was careful to suction the now-bare substrate aggressively, but not completely, since I don't want to obliterate all the beneficial bacteria that lives therein. I removed my beloved moss-covered driftwood piece and threw it away. I plucked out some dreadful little pebbles I'd put in the tank a long time ago and combed the entire substrate until it was ready for the next step.
I decided I quite like light sand in the foreground. From Justin, I bought a 10 lb. bag of sand. It's not as fine as what Amano uses and does a better job of allowing water to circulate. Justin cut me a 12" strip of non-toxic plastic that I bent into an arc and dug into the existing substrate. I spooned/sucked out all of the substrate in front of the arc, leaving a pocket about an inch high that revealed the floor of the tank. Into this pocket, I poured about a pound of sand, until it spilled over the edge of the plastic strip, allowing me to carefully merge the foreground sand with the background substrate for a stream-bed effect.
From Steven and George I bought a small piece of driftwood, a fist-sized Amano-style rock, and half a dozen much smaller rocks that look like miniature boulders. I used the driftwood and rocks to frame the sand in the foreground, separating it from the coarser substrate in the background.
I then planted several small plants that don't require demanding light (my T5 provides only 1.5 watts per gallon). I added short Valisneria and multiple varieties of Cryptos from Justin, plus a dot of Java moss and new-growth Acorus that I preserved from the landscape I'd just demolished.

While the new design is less busy and feels more like a natural stream bed, I am reminded of how apparent the background appliances are.

I'd like to experiment with a tank that doesn't rely on fast-growing stem plants to stave off algae. Asgard has always been the tank with which I experiment most vigorously. The challenge of maintaining stable water chemistry in such a nano-environment coupled with the absence of stem plants should prove interesting. I've been extra careful to redesign the landscape with real estate for the emergency intervention of stem plants should they be required...or should I grow bored of looking at pipes and tubes in the background.

In the meantime, the killifish, rasboras, and shrimps all seem to be adjusting to their radically different home quite nicely.

WEEK 8: 20G TANK

2006-01-16T18:17:00.000-08:00

Although I seem terminally plagued with string algae, the new tank is doing wonderfully well.

I've now completed my livestock plan. In addition to 2 SAEs, 2 Otos (the third died), the lone dwarf puffer, and the cherry and Amano shrimpies, I've added 15 Boraras brigittae, which are among the smallest vertebrates in the world and are smaller even than my 2 prize B. maculatas. Unfortunately, they are so small, I immediately lost three of them to the inflow valve (I've since corrected the problem with a temporary measure until my new ADA lilly pipe is installed).

I thought that 15 of these guys would make the tank feel full of life, but I have to tell you -- they are teeny. So teeny, in fact, that I may add another ten or so! Now, won't that be a school to enjoy.

I also added 3 of what I'm told are the world's smallest catfish, the Corydoras habrosus. At about half an inch, they are very cool, indeed. They make Otos look like giants.

WEEK 6: 20G TANK

2005-12-31T16:52:00.000-08:00

Forty-four days into the tank's life, it's stable enough for me to introduce fish. Today, I stopped by Justin's place (Ocean Aquarium) and George and Steven's place (Aqua Forest Aquarium) to lightly populate the tank with an algae squad. My early algae problems abated, but I have lingering hair algae that, while not a threat, is simply unsightly. Here are the fish I bought:

Siamese Algae Eaters (Siamensis): quantity 2: I had abysmal luck with these fish two years ago when I had them in Assgard (my 6g). I've learned a lot since then and feel comfortable having them around to gobble up annoying hair algae.
Otocinclus affinis (dwarf otocinclus): quantity 3: I also had terrible luck with these fish a few years ago. They're so interesting and great scavengers, so I'm happy to have them around in a much healthier tank.
Monotetrus travancoricus (dwarf freshwater puffer): quantity 1: I fell in love with these little guys when I first saw them at AFA. They stay very small and can live in a community tank with other fish who aren't too small. Although they may nip fins, they're not terribly aggressive in the absence of other puffers. Until I add my final school of color fish, he's the top dog in the tank.
Cherry shrimp (indeterminate species): quantity 3: It's been a couple of years since I had beautiful cherry shrimp. Right now, they're incredibly small, so I've wrapped cheesecloth around the inflow pipe so they don't get sucked into the canister filter.
Caridina japonica (Amano shrimp): quantity 2: As much of a fan of Amano as I am, I've never actually had Amano shrimp. Cherry, Tiger, Crystal Red, sure, but never Amano. I thought it was about time.

One of the young Siamenses followed closely by another.

One of my favorite types of shrimp. This specimen--quite young--is only a few millimeters in length.

Upper left corner, you can see my new puffer hovering over the Siamensis. He's a plucky one!

Tomorrow, I'll post new pics of the whole tank with my new Christmas present, an Olympus digital camera specially designed for zooms as close as 3 centimeters.

DAY 30: 2OG TANK

2005-12-18T14:36:00.000-08:00

It's hard to believe that yesterday the tank turned 1 month old. Over the span of about three hours, I removed all of the starter stem plants, leaving behind only moss on the driftwood, and planted my new crop of grasses and accent plants from Aqua Forest Aquarium.

YESTERDAY: I was beginning to get used to the density of color and stem plants, but this layout was never meant to be permanent: only to establish the tank.

TODAY: This is the new layout. It's a step in the direction of my original sketches for the design.

I had fun working with Steven and George at AFA to determine the right mix of foreground and background grasses. As you can see from the "today" photo above, the new layout is not about height, but about opposing triangles, one pointing down on the left, one pointing up on the right. Info about the new plants I bought:

Blyxa japonica, or Japanese rush. This is commonly used in the foreground or midground. I decided to use it as a midground, rear corner accent because it allows for great visibility to the back of the tank and works well behind my single large rock, creating a sense of height up the gentle slope in that corner.
Eleocharis acicularis, or hairgrass, in both dwarf and tall forms. The rear left corner of the tank belongs to a bed of tall hairgrass. I snipped more than a dozen budding runners off the tips of the mature grass and planted them at the bases of the plants from which they came. I'm hoping that in about a month, that corner will be thick with grass from the substrate to the water's surface.
Polygonum, or knotweed. This lovely and unusual red/pink leaf plant, considered invasive by ecological standards, is going to act as a mid-height accent plant that ties together the left side, the base of the driftwood, and the tall hairgrass behind it. I cut the stems as short as I could and planted them fairly close together to facilitate a dense bushy growth down the road. We'll see how well that plan works.
Eriocaulaceae "australia". This very expensive and attractive plant is the heart of the foreground grasses. As much as I paid for it, I hope I don't kill it!

Reddish brown leaves of Red Flame Sword in front of the driftwood, red/pink Polygonum on the far left, tall grasses in the background, short grasses in the foreground.

Red flame sword, a small show plant for the foreground.

Right side of the tank features Japanese rush, dwarf hairgrass and the bright green cluster of Eriocaulaceae "australia" nestled between and around Amano-style rocks.

Other routines I'm changing now that the tank is a month old:

I've started buffering the water with GH/KH Up, approximately 1ml per 5g of water during a water change. My KH regularly registers at 2...I'd like to shoot for 4, with 3 being an acceptable improvement.
Now that the algae outbreak has abated, I'm dosing with ADA Green Brighty at regular strength, approximately 1ml per 20 litres of water per day. Since I no longer have an abundance of fast-growing plants in the tank, I'll have to monitor and adjust this carefully to thwart opportunistic algae.

What's next? When I get back from Christmas with the family, I'll introduce a few shrimp and some Siamese Algae Eaters. In a few weeks, I think I'll be ready for the centerpiece fish: a large school of very small brightly colored fish. Stay tuned!

DAY 20: 20G TANK

2005-12-08T17:10:00.000-08:00

Closeup of the healthy new moss growth on the driftwood's upper section. The moss now clings to the wood on its own--I've removed netting and threads that held it down.

Hallelujia, or however you spell that. Two days ago, my ammonia levels collapsed dramatically to zero. It's a wonderful sign of progress for a new tank when the ammonia is at last under control. Notes on the tank's progress:

I'm staving off an algae incursion mostly by changing 20% of my water every two days, cutting away leaves infested with soft hair algae, vacuuming out green algae, and trimming stem plants to stimulate new growth. I don't think the water is stable enough to introduce Otocinclus or SAEs. I'd also like to wait at least two weeks before adding algae shrimp. In the meantime, I've got a handful of snails who are doing their best to clear algae.
My KH is unacceptably low (ranging from 1 to 2), so I'm going to start buffering the water this weekend.
I've started dosing more heavily with ADA's Green Brighty to encourage aggressive plant growth as a competitive defense against algae. Have to monitor this closely so I don't also give the algae what it wants to flourish.

DAY 12: 20G TANK

2005-11-30T14:34:00.000-08:00

Please note that every single one of the stem plants you see in this picture will be removed once the tank is established. The ultimate plan for this tank revolves around plains grasses. I like to start a new tank with hardy stem plants like those pictured. Ultimately, I'll remove them to other tanks to make room for the final design.

Now 12 days old, the 20g is doing fine. Two days ago, I noticed a small breakout of slime algae on the lower of two Christmas Moss clumps on the driftwood. To combat this, I did four things:

I did a 50% water change yesterday and then a 10% water change today. I will do a 20% water change every other day until I see an abatement in the slime.
Using long pincers, I manually removed larger clumps of the slime algae. During the water changes, I used suction from the hose to gently dislodge and suck away the remaining algae. Luckily, slime algea, although opportunistic, is very easy to remove.
I stopped adding Kent Freshwater Plant, which contains Potassium, a nutrient largely unecessary in an immature tank. In a moment, I'll talk about what I plan to use instead.
I added a large clump of fast-growing Rotala indica. Although I have nearly three dozen individual stem plants in the tank to assist with its establishment, I figure it can't hurt to add even more. The more stem plants available to suck up nutrients, the fewer nutrients available for opportunistic algae.

The Rotala indica I mention above I bought from Aqua Forest Aquarium. Steven recommended that instead of the Kent liquid nutrients, I try ADA's Green Brighty Step 1, which provides only specific nutrients required for plants to "get started."

When I reach the two week mark, I'll post more pictures.

TWEAKS & ADJUSTMENTS

2005-11-24T17:09:00.000-08:00

Now 5 days old, the 20g tank is doing very well. Today, I installed the Lily outflow pipe, which, I must, say, is a gorgeous addition, replacing the hideous outflow tubes that came with the filter canister.

I also hooked up my CO2. The cylinder now pumps CO2 through a check valve and into the tank, through a glass diffuser. The way the water rotates in the tank led me to position the diffuser in the lower right front corner, allowing for maximum CO2 "stirrage," I word I just made up. I plan to replace the gray suction cup with a clear one, and the blue silicon tubing with grey tubing. All in the name of minimizing the visual intrusion of tank accoutrements.

The throwaway stem plants are thriving, with minimal die off. The pH, which was steadily sinking, now hovers around 6.0, and the ammonia is still quite high. The die off in the Christmass moss is less than I'd imagined, which, I think, is good. Between the ample light, constantly refreshed water, and, now, CO2, the moss should thrive in time.

Here are some pics of the tank and its new accessories.

GOOD QUESTION!

2005-11-23T18:16:00.000-08:00

A visitor asked me how much I had invested in the 20g tank I set up recently. I'm not done with the investment, but the following table is a good snapshot of my costs. Keep in mind that I bought items that I didn't need, for that extra aesthetic oomph.

$110.00	ADA tank
$69.99	canister filter
$120.00	CO2 regulator with solenoid/bubble counter
$26.00	test kits
$28.00	ADA power sand special
$36.00	ADA amazonia aqua soil
$38.00	glass CO2 diffuser
$35.00	amano driftwood
$56.00	plants
$120.00	CO2 cylinder, full
$19.00	Cycle and Amquel
$109.00	ADA Lily pipe (outflow)
$6.00	check valve
$22.00	100-watt heater
$11.00	suction cups and tubing
$805.99	TOTAL (so far)

How much do I expect to invest beyond this? Not sure. Rare livestock and uncommon plants could reach the $200-$300 mark. Although I'm mostly done with equipment, I can imagine spending another $200 for a glass inflow pipe and other stuff.

CORRECTING UGLINESS

2005-11-23T16:59:00.000-08:00

As I've mentioned below, I want the new 20g tank to be as lovely a technical contraption as it is a conserve. Because I'm aghast at how hideous the inflow and outflow tubes for the filter tank are, I took my case to George Lo at Aqua Forest Aquarium.

Should I be surprised that he turned me on to ADA's lovely Lily pipe? It's an all glass outflow tube, with a sunken cup that resembles the mouth of a Cala Lily. He didn't have any inflow pipes, but promised he'd have one by Christmas. At $100+ per pipe, I think I can wait.

I also liked that he uses very small suction cups to keep the CO2 tubing vertical and snug with the tank walls, so I bought a bunch of those. And some ADA check valves designed for use with CO2.

Tomorrow is Thanksgiving. As my ham bakes, I'll play around by installing my new goodies. Will post pics for your pleasure.

REFINEMENTS & ADDITIONS

2005-11-22T16:32:00.000-08:00

Today, I dropped by AFA, but Tuesdays they are closed. So, I bopped over to Justin at Ocean Aquarium to see what he's up to. I just wanted two female Checkerboard cichlids to keep my beautiful lone male company, but his batch was still so young, he couldn't tell males from females. He urged me to try again in two weeks.

Not to be thwarted, I picked up some items for the 6g and new 20g:

A 100-watt heater for the 20g. I'd been using a dinky extra 25-watt I had lying around, which was not up to the task.
Another glass CO2 diffuser, this one even smaller and cuter than the one I bought for the 20g. I installed it in the 6g, replacing a relatively enormous Vortex reactor that served me well for a couple of years, but was just too prominent in so small a tank.
A healthy, thick bunch of -- oh, I forgot to ask what they are! -- anyway, they're bright red, with curly-spinach-style leaves. I got these ultimately disposable beauties only to more densely populate the 20g while it establishes itself.
A nice zippered case containing extra long pincers, shears, and a double-ended substrate spoon.

I also talked with Justin at length about my plans for livestock. I trust him without reservation when it comes to this kind of advice. The lovely fish and shrimp I've used -- at his recommendation -- in Asgard (6g tank) over the years have been a joyous balance between rare specimens and very small fish that can flourish in so small a space.

When I told him I wanted lots and lots of very small schooling fish (a dream I've been unable to realize in my smaller tanks), he showed me Jellybean tetras, which are cool, but not as striking as what I'm after. Then he showed me the astonishing Rasbora pauciperforata, or Red-line Rasbora. In dim light, it's rather unremarkable, but under bright light, a strong red line runs horizontally from the snout along the lateral line, terminating at the caudal fin. They look like fish who'd swallowed itty bitty glow sticks. More on my livestock research as it develops.

MY NEW 20G TANK

2005-11-20T13:34:00.000-08:00

My original plan was to completely redesign the 10g freshwater tank, but yesterday, I took the plunge at Aqua Forest Aquarium and bought a whole new tank, replete with some pretty spectacular gear.

MATERIALS

An all glass 20g ADA tank.
A Rena Filstar xP1 canister filter.
An MA957 CO2 regulator with solenoid valve and bubble counter.
A 5 lb. CO2 tank.
New ammonia, nitrite, and pH kits.
ADA's Power Sand Special.
ADA's Amazonia Aqua Soil.
An exquisite little CO2 diffuser, made entirely of glass.
Several feet of blue silicon tubing (for CO2).
A bottle of AmQuel and a bottle of Cycle.
Two large bunches of Christmas Moss.
Three bunches each of Rotala indica, Ludwigia repens, and a third Rotala type.
A not inexpensive piece of Amano-style driftwood.

DESIGN CONCEPTS

Below are diagrams and a sketch that demonstrate what I'm trying to design.

I've always been fascinated by the concept of the Golden Section or Golden Mean. I wondered what sort of spaces two opposing triangles would create. In the diagrams, you'll notice that the driftwood slashes the tank's visual space in the region left behind by two opposing triangles. I now have a strong left right, top bottom opposition.

The space characterized by the upper right triangle, pointing down, is one of height and flow. This is where I'll install large, flowing stem and bush plants. The lower right triangle, pointing up, defines the ground. A lot of unobstructed light reaches this parcel, so it lends itself to small, plains-style grasses and shrublets.

To dramatize the driftwood slash effect, I'll smother it with closely-pruned moss. This is the centerpiece, visually, of the tank. I like that with only moss and its position, I have a fixture I can easily monitor and maintain, having my way with the real estate all around it. I prefer topiary moss, which makes preserving the slash even easier.

THE PROCESS

How long did it take? About 6 hours, although if I hadn't taken all kinds of food, phone, cigarette, and potty breaks, it might have taken 4. I won't bore you with a step-by-step walkthrough of the installation (unless you're interested), but I want to share some things I encountered:

A beautiful tank deserves esthetically correspondent appliances. The industrial inlet and outlet tubes for the canister filter are hideous: grey and silvery blue, thick and very visible. I'll be going back to AFA in the next few days to purchase lighter, less visible materials.

I'm not accustomed to so much GPH power in a filter. It's both alarming and exciting. Real water flow that makes plants waver in the currents. When I upgrade the inlet/outlet tubing (see above), I'll do so with the specific goal of positioning the outlet nozzle at or around surface level, adjusting for a balance between oxygenation agitation and noise.

The Rotala and Ludwigia are throwaway plants. I just stuffed them into the substrate so they can contribute over the next couple of weeks to the tank's establishment.

Don't forget to buy silicon tape for the sealing of your CO2 regulator to its tank.

The guys at AFA recommended placing a plastic sheet of some kind on the substrate when you're first introducing water. This helps prevent the substrate from blasting all over the place. I used a large square of Cling Wrap for the first 4 or so gallons. After that, I switched back to the ever reliable saucer, which allows for a faster pouring rate.

Tubes and power cords ain't pretty. This tank is visible from all sides, so I'll probably go out of my way to acquire precious appliances that minimize the ugliness of -- stuff -- hanging out of your tank. I suspect this won't be inexpensive.

I'm so excited about establishing a new tank that I haven't even considered livestock. Shrimpies, of course. I'm smitten. I'm leaning toward a visually arresting mass of very small fish, for that schooling effect none of my smaller tanks can support. Say, 20 Rasbora maculata, or 20 Rocket killifish. I also learned of the freshwater puffer (about the size of a small lima bean with a tail), which I haven't ruled out as a celebrity presence in the new tank.

DESIGN INSPIRATIONS

It's hard to believe that in July, 2003, I bought my very first tank, the very same 10g tank I'm about to retire to make room for my new 20g.

During that summer, I did loads of research, turning often to the web for photos that would give me some idea of what's possible. Following is a very specific photo that always moved me. It reminded me of a primordial branch that could have been under water. Or down in the shade of a Pacific Northwest forest, where ferns live. Didn't matter. The moss configuration draping over a single piece of fallen wood has stuck with me for over three years.

From Jason at Nature Aquarium

Last fall, when I started watching Peter Jackson's video diaries illuminating the production process for King Kong, an image struck me that, as you can plainly see, drew me back to the primordial branch above.

Production still from Peter Jackson's King Kong

DAY 2 PHOTOS OF THE NEW TANK

Here is the new tank (left) and the tank (right) it is about to replace.

Throwaway plants in the background. You can see why I'm irritated by the tubes and pipes...they clutter and crowd the glass.

The driftwood and its moss nets. Much of the mature moss will die while new growth attaches to the wood and flourishes under new conditions.

Stay tuned for more, soon.

DAY 1: THE REDESIGN

2005-10-15T21:29:00.000-07:00

Now that I have the lamp I mentioned in my post below, I want to try a few things before gutting the 10g. First, I want to extend my observations of cichlids by creating discreet safety spaces—caves. Second, I want to thin the existing environment so I can get my head around the space I have to work with.

Since this whole interior is going away—and I can creatively destroy it as I please—I simply bought small 39-cent terra-cotta pots, cracked them with hammer and screwdriver, filed down their sharp edges and corners, and tucked them in the pebble substrate. I removed one of the three pieces of driftwood to open up the space. One or two of the plants attached to that driftwood I pruned and attached to small rocks, tucking them around the caves to make them seem more natural—if terra cotta caves can be considered natural.

The top photo is the tank yesterday. The bottom photo is today. Not much difference, but you'll note more open space in the front of the tank and a mild quality of receding in the center, drawing the eye to the caves nestled in vegetation.

Soon, I'll be selecting rocks and plants for the new interior. First up—substrate selection. After that, a CO2 plan.

LET THERE BE LIGHT

2005-10-14T16:53:00.000-07:00

Today, I had the distinct pleasure of visiting the new LFS in town. An anonymous commenter alerted me to a photo essay by Erik Leung of the new store, Aqua Forest Aquarium, owned and operated by George and Steven Lo.

The moment I hit the door, I knew I was in love. As you can see from Erik's photos, this place is about class, like a Park Avenue hair salon...but with fish. The Los' clear affection for the photography and tank design of Takashi Amano and their licensed status as ADA (Aqua Design Amano) purveyors infuses the entire store with a sense of meticulousness and precision that perfectly captures why I'm into aquarianism to begin with.

The Los were out when I arrived, but two lovely people helped me out (I forgot to ask their names...next time!). Because I was so smitten by the terrific plant selection and gorgeous, clean tanks, I scarcely paid attention to the available fish. I knew that if I went here, I was going to be inspired. Being inspired usually means spending money.

Anyone who's followed the Weberian Apparatus knows that I have two tanks, a 10g (my first) and a 6g (my Amano-style pride and joy).

Now three years old, the 10g suffers solely from a lack of the right equipment to make it something special. It's got two dinky incandescent bulbs that are just bright enough to keep Java fern and Anubias happy. The bulbs are in an esthetically displeasing condensation hood that blocks all views into the tank from above. Half a dozen of the original Neon Tetras, plus some Rummy-Nose Tetras, and a pair of Checkerboard cichlids inhabit it. No CO2, no fertilizer or additional nutrients, just a basic planted tank. The only thing I've done special with this tank is experiment with and perfect specific pH levels for the convenience and comfort of the cichlids.

Thanks to Aqua Forest Aquarium, the admitted ho-humness of the 10g is about to change. I plopped down a chunk of bills for a lovely Archaea T5/Arctic Light-I, a high-output fluorescent lamp with two bulbs that together yield 48 watts, or nearly 5 watts per gallon. This is the strongest lighting I've ever worked with, and I'm drooling with the possibilities that implies. With the installation of a CO2 tank and a chemistry regimen, I'll actually be able to do what has always eluded me: support beds of Riccia and low-growing hair grass. I can now comb my Amano books and say, "Yup, I've got the wattage to reproduce or modify that design for my tastes."

What's next? I'm not sure. I'm trying to decide whether I want to create a temporary tank for the fishies while I gut and redo the 10g from scratch, or simply toy with improvements to the existing tank. The existing 10g is very well established, meaning that the filtration, bacterial management, and water column are perfectly "old." The current plant design is horrible, an artifact of the low-light reality that tank has lived in for three years.

I've thought about retiring the 10g and graduating to a larger tank, but I'm obstinate about the amazing things you can do with small spaces. I learned that with the 6g. The 10g is nearly twice the size—I have absolutely no excuse for not doing something cool with what I've got.

Stay posted. I've now got RSS on Weberian Apparatus. Hope you'll have fun as I put together all the parts and pieces and transform what was old into something new.

GOODBYE, NIPPON

2005-09-07T13:34:00.000-07:00

An anonymous commenter asked if I knew that Nippon Goldfish, my preferred LFS since I got into aquarianism back in August 2003, had closed its doors. They had been a family business for decades and were beloved by local enthusiasts in the city. When I stopped by a few weeks ago to pick up some filter media and other supplies, I was stunned and disappointed to note that they were no more.

I learned from Justin, the proprietor of Ocean Aquarium, my other favorite LFS, that the guys who owned Nippon sold their building for a phenomenal profit, thus ending years of labor. I'm very happy for the Nippon guys...that's the American dream: do something well and needed for a long time and then get out and move on with a hefty profit to show for all your hard work.

Unfortunately, for the rest of us, we will have to realign our LFS routines to make up for the considerable gap in available services, fish, and products.

Fortunately, Ocean Aquarium can meet all my needs for plants, new fish, and basic supplies. The LFS on Clement, between 5th and 6th (whose proper name always eludes me) will continue to cater to the marine-tank crowd. I've never been impressed with their freshwater-plant or fish selection, but they have the most beautiful and exotic array of marine creatures, and they're always a backup for supplies when I can't get over to Justin's place.

So, thanks for the memories, Nippon. Good luck in your next life.

CATASTROPHE HATH STRUCK

2005-08-26T19:03:00.000-07:00

Well, my ill-timed business trip did my fry in. I'm sure that if I could have stayed behind, I'd have salvaged a few offspring. Alas, under the care of a friend to whom I can assign no blame, the fry all died. Nine dead.

(The good news is that I just saved a bunch of money on my car insurance by switching to Geico.)

I thought I'd be crushed by this failure, but it's all OK. First, I was caught with my pants down. I've never bred fish (only far more self-sufficient shrimp).

I learned several things and will be better prepared next time.

First, be prepared for a spawning. Have a fry net available. If you're working with a relatively small tank (10g) like I am, it should be small and hang from the tank's side. As soon as you notice eggs on a leaf (as is the norm with Checkerboard cichlids), watch them closely and be prepared to isolate the mother and leaf (with eggs) in the fortified net.
Get frozen baby brine shrimp. Very different from frozen brine shrimp. The baby version is extremely fine, small enough for fry to eat. Feed fry early and often.
Make sure the fry net receives proper aeration...which will happen with no effort on your fry net.
Pay attention to what's going on regularly. I work from home (when I'm not on a dumb business trip, that is), so that's easy.

I'm stimulating the female (slight change in pH, a change in diet, and more frequent water changes) and will be prepared for the next spawning. Stay tuned. I'm looking forward to doing it right next time.

DAY 2: CHECKERBOARD CICHLID FRY

2005-08-22T17:15:00.000-07:00

Today, I actually took time off from work to visit Justin at Ocean Aquarium. He built me a small fry trap out of an old Rubbermaid container. On each of the short vertical sides, he'd cut out a large circle. Over each of these holes, he'd epoxied the finest netting, fine enough to prevent fry from swimming into the main tank, large enough for aeration from the main tank to occur unimpeded.

I also bought frozen baby brine shrimp, which I'll feed the fry once they're a little bigger. Now, at only about 2 millimeters, they will feast on infusoria. Today, I put about 4 drops of infusoria right into the trap. Trace elements of it will leak into the main tank, which is fine. Apparently, I need to do this 2 or 3 times a day.

The Neon tetras are frustrated that they can't get to the fry through the trap walls. The two fry I left behind in the main tank are already gone, either eaten or sucked into the filter.

Two of the 9 fry in isolation are rather intrepid, striking out on their own to explore the rather large trap (about 1.5 gallons). The others huddle in a corner.

I think I've seen one of the fry dart enthusiastically in search of food. That's a good sign.

I'm very excited about this, although I haven't yet given any thought to what to do when these fish get bigger. I may divest the 10g of its tetras and devote the tank to cichlids. We'll see.