Nathan, one of the aquarium gurus at Nippon Goldfish, where I buy supplies and fish, turned me on to Ocean Aquarium, a hole-in-the-wall over on 120 Cedar St., near Geary and Van Ness in SF.

Owner Justin Hau, surprisingly, was not only a purveyor of fine aquatic plants (including rare mosses and Riccia), he was a habitat builder, with several beautifully planted small and medium tanks.

He gave me the tour, showing me how he cultivates Riccia and moss for later sales or for his own use in promoting the beauty of Amano-style aquascaping. Walking through his joint was like inhaling as you move through an opium den. Everywhere I turned, something compact and beautiful awaited me, full of mystery and exquisite forethought.

Throughout Ocean Aquarium is a mystique of care and patience. After asking what livestock I'd use, Justin showed me his variety of shrimp. He's got Amano. He's got two large (bulky for 2 inches) lobster-like shrimp: fascinating. He's got small clear shrimp with beautiful blue lines running their backs. In other words, a coveted selection.